Are you having problems with your Whirlpool washer making horrible sounds and not spinning? Are you having those symptoms but your washer is NOT a Whirlpool? Not that it really makes a whole lot of difference, but if your top load washer is an Amana, Kenmore, Maytag, Roper or Estate brand (and there are even more!), then you actually DO have a washing machine made by Whirlpool and simply branded under a different name. But like I said, that doesn’t really matter that much – what’s more important is the actual problem you’re having with your washer, and getting it fixed!
As with any repair, be sure you’ve unplugged the appliance before beginning.
We thought we would include a bit of information directly from the Whirlpool service manual, along with some an illustration, in the hopes it might make all of this a bit more clear (as well as the accompanying videos).
Accessing Components Inside the Whirlpool Washer Cabinet
Components inside the washer cabinet can be accessed by completely removing the outer cabinet as one unit. Refer to the figure here.
- Remove the console mounting screws and tilt the console into the service position.
- Unplug the lid switch harness connector from the receptacle in the washer top.
- Remove the cabinet mounting clips by placing the flat blade of a screwdriver in the clip as shown.
- Remove the cabinet by tilting it forward and pulling it away from the washer.
- The rear panel can be tilted back for additional access to components at the rear of the machine by twisting the rear panel support 90 degrees and then tilting the panel back.
Your first step is to move the control panel out of the way. To do this, remove the screws found at either end. On some models these screws may be located in the rear panel or they may be covered by plastic end caps. Pull the end cap off from the top to access the screw. Remove both screws and rotate the panel up. Some models use clips instead of screws to secure the control panel. Insert a putty knife between the control panel and the cabinet to release the clips. Unplug the wire connector and snap out the spring clips using a flat head screw driver.
Tilt the cabinet toward you slide forward and remove. You’ll need to remove the pump first to access the motor. Unsnap the retainer clips and wiggle the pump off of the motor shaft. Move it to the side. Detach the motor wiring harness. Next remove the two screws from the motor retainer clips and snap off the bottom clip. Since the motor is heavy support it with your hand as you snap off the top clip now pull the motor out. Remove the drive couplers isolator and cog from the motor shaft – be aware you may need to use force to successfully removed the cog.
You’re now ready to install the new drive motor. Transfer the four rubber grommets from the old motor onto the new one. Place the isolator onto the cog attached to the gear case driveshaft. Carefully pushed the removed cog onto the new motor shaft until it is flush against it.
Line at the prongs on the cog with the holes in the isolator and slide the motor into position. Reinstall the retainer clips and screws. Reconnect the motor wire harness and align the motor shaft with the pump and slide the pump on. Reinstall both pump clips. Now reinstall the cabinet.
The front edge of the cabinet slides underneath the base frame. Use your foot to push it into position. Align the two notches in each side of the cabinet with the tabs on each side of the base frame. Now ease the cabinet to match up with the rear panel. Reinstall the spring clips, reattach the wire connector, rotate the control panel down and lock the clips into place or reinstall the two screws. If applicable to your model, replace the end caps by aligning the tab with the slot at the bottom and snapping the cap into position. You’re now ready to plug the appliance back in to make sure it’s functioning properly.